This post will deal with the ins and outs of creating a tall vivarium for climbing or arboreal dart frogs.
Step 1:
It is important to start with a clean enclosure. Often aquariums will sit in pet stores for months before being purchased, and can fill up with dust, fur, and insects. We typically sanitize new enclosures with a mild solution of household bleach* in water. The most commonly recommended dilution is 3/4 cup of bleach per gallon of water. This solution should be liberally applied to all surfaces of the enclosure, allowed to sit for roughly 10 minutes, and rinsed with clean water several times. Dry the enclosure thoroughly, and allow it to sit overnight to eliminate any remaining chlorine.
*note: follow all safety precautions as listed on the bleach container.
Step 2:
This viarium will be built with the use of a 10 gallon vertical conversion kit. The tank is a 20 gallon extra tall, but it has the same rim dimensions as a standard 10 gallon Aqueon or AGA aquarium. The lower panel on this tank has also been drilled to accept a drainage outlet.
Step 3:
A drainage layer is a must for this type of enclosure. There are many different options for drainage substrates, but we prefer to use a hydroponic media called Hydroton, because it is relatively inexpensive, much lighter than gravel, and promotes beneficial bacteria. Usually 2-3″ of drainage substrate is adequate.
Step 4:
It is a good idea to lay down some screening material over the drainage layer to prevent smaller soil particles from settling into the Hydroton. To accomplish this, simply cut a section of fiberglass window screen to the same dimensions as the aquarium floor.
Step 5:
Now the substrate can be added. A 1″ layer of coarse coconut husk chips and mulch is laid over the screen. Be sure to pack this layer down around the sides of the tank to prevent soil from escaping.
On top of this, another layer composed of sphagnum peat, sand, and organic soil is added. This will hold a greater moisture content than the layer below it, and helps plants initially root.
Step 6:
An important and often overlooked part of vivarium construction involves establishing a variety of micro fauna within the enclosure. These are essential because they act as janitors within the vivarium, removing mold and fungi, and helping to disperse wastes. This enclosure was seeded with a few hundred Springtails, which will form a perpetual colony in 3-4 weeks. Isopods are another excellent choice for this purpose.
Step 7:
At this point the hardscaping of the tank can be done. Three pieces of Manzanita wood were positioned to add depth to the tank, provide climbing opportunities for the inabitants, as well as mounting points for bromeliads and other epiphytes.
Step 8:
With the hardscaping done, observe the tank for a brief period to determine what the conditions will be like in different locations throughout the vivarium in order to plant appropriately. Spray the tank down to get an idea which areas will receive the most moisture, and which the least. The plant selection for this JungleBox includes cryptanthus, Pellionia repens, Neoregelia bromeliads, and Pellionia pulchra.
Step 9:
Finally a layer of oak and magnolia leaves are sprinkled around the vivarium. These will provide shelter for the frogs as well as the springtails. At this point the vivarium should be allowed to “set-up” for about a month. During this time, the micro fauna will multiply, and any initial mold problems will come and go. The plants will also establish themselves, making it less likely that they will need much attention once the frogs are added.
The same vivarium after two months of growth:
Tags: arrow frog, dart frog, Vertical Vivarium
